Innovations autumn // winter 10|11
Marioboselli Jersey (I): On the Trail of Ecology
From organic to high-end fabrics – the Italians have it all in the pipeline. They have submerged their “BioChic” line for next winter in ocean blue. They present organic cotton, linen, organic wool and crabyon, a fibre made of the chitin in the carapaces of insects and crabs. Already approved by the medical profession thanks to their antiallergenic and antibacterial features crabyon materials are coloured using purely vegetable dyes in an eco-friendly manner. Despite all its research and investment Marioboselli Jersey has to realise that “our “BioChic” line will not sell as well as originally expected. The concept has not yet been fully understood by the fashion industry. A great deal of uncertainty and ignorance prevail when it comes to the advantages of organic products. Consequently, customers show only little comprehension for the higher price of these garments.” It should be easier to drum up enthusiasm for the new “Top-line” consisting of classy woollen fabrics and woollen blends, sometimes plain, sometimes mottled or sometimes even velvety in the finest silk yarns and heavy viscose fabrics for jackets and coats. The colours concentrate on light, earthy tones and classic mottled greys.
Feinjersey (A): Organic is on the Rise
“In general, we are witnessing a growing interest in organic products from our customers. We try to feature many samples in this segment since the demand for more specific information is high. Nevertheless, we still feel the market’s uncertainty here resulting in rather reluctant buying behaviour. Most customers shy from taking out their own certification or drop the issue for other reasons. Positive signs for us are that one of our customers is purchasing increasing quantities in the field of organic fabrics and we have even found a new customer. Aside from blends we have now added items in pure white to our range. General information on our jerseys: We increasingly select new, very fine rib fabrics and pinstripe is also gaining ground again. High-quality fabrics such as silk or those with cashmere admixtures arouse interest while blends also do well. It is important that colours change constantly over time. Micro-modal is gaining relevance while polyamide is losing its significance. Basically, things are becoming finer and lighter – and more sophisticated looks are what count.”
Maschentex (GE): Jersey for Ready-to-Wear Production
These German knitted fabrics specialists are already standing on the sunny side of the market, reporting “a fairly stable position”. Commenting on the current situation they say: “Customers are taking increasing advantage of NOS ranges, which can be reordered very quickly. Jerseys for the ready-to-wear market meet with avid interest and are exhibited at trade fairs. Otherwise exhibition results and response are the same as in previous years. Interest in organic textiles is high and continues to grow – as evidenced by existing turnover figures. The range for winter includes new jerseys for dresses, jackets and trousers as well as fine textures imitating woven fabrics.
ADDITIONALS
Madeira: Individuality
In order to confirm the trend of individualism, the German specialist for knitted and effect yarns hereunder light golden tones made of his FS Supertwist colour chart with metallic yarns. Amongst others those are for example the White Gold of FS 20 and Supertwist 30. They stand for noblesse and simultaneously emphasize the artisan character. Staid and clayey appearing embroideries come to the fore, spotlighting viscose yarns like the Madeira Classic. Available in four different strengths the Madeira Classic impresses the customers with its silky shimmer, satisfies them with its soft touch/cloth and fascinates them with beautiful light reflections and shadow plays. We rather prefer a few stitches less, but then digitalized by a specialist with a combination of different exquisite yarns, than more stitches of a pooper quality, goes the motto of Madeira. Besides, metallic effects in bronze, copper and darker silver tones are important.
Knopf Schäfer: Chic and elegant
The German experts for buttons go for elegance and luxurious modernness. Though themes like Sporting Glam with a lot of leather, metallic effects, rivets and metal accessories, give hints of rock and biker-flair. Far classier appear the high-class accessories in Be Dressed made of real ivory nut or nacre optics with silky aspect. Nicely shaped, clean metal buttons with brush effects perfectly fit into the fashion between the 30s and 80s. With dark and antique metallic colours, ostentatious ornaments, heraldry and historic motives inspired by the orient and the Balkan the theme Decoration becomes a more extravagant air. Relaxed Patchwork in contrast appears sporty and rustic, using materials as wood, horn, ivory nut and metal in dark copper and brass. äfer Copper): Knopf Schäfer
Cadica Group: Tradition meets modernity
Old meets new. Antique interpretations with the newest technologies. The Italians, frequenting the studios of topdesigners to supply them with their assortment of labels and concepts, follow graphic designs, elegant shapes and colours of history when the artisans still made the standards. Calligraphies as if of maters hand, but also faded-out colour shades fall under this theme. Provoca tive combinations of material connect high-tech labels of the finest carbon fibre and polyurethane with glamorous interpretations of glimmering yarns with bright coloured silk, prints and dyed cotton.
Yön Etiket: Tailwind
This Turkish label can expect a successful season since trends are generating a strong tailwind for leather experts. Aside from predominantly real leather labels the collection also includes imitation leather. Further buzzwords are nubuk leather, jackron, printed and embroidered labels plus silicon and paper. Their updated list of customers features names like PT05, Silver Creek and Truth or Dare adding to the international circle of brands such as Phard, Rifle, GF Ferre and Armani Jeans.
Knopf und Knopf: Progressive
These German button experts consciously present themselves in a progressive light with more new products in their range than ever. A flood of hooks, press studs, round, square, big, small, with metallic features and various borings opens up the way to a new kind of fashion design. Many leather accessories are made to look either old or perfect and new. Alongside buttons with uneven structures, colours and lacquering, cut-outs or simple, chunky metal fasteners can be found at Knopf and Knopf. Buttons and ornaments, hand-painted uniform buttons, electroplated metals like old copper and large safety pins for knitted cardigans connect the vintage look with noblesse and chic. Delicate fasteners like romantic minipearl buttons, pale pastel-coloured buttons or playful cord stoppers with crystal splitters round off the picture here. The trend themes at a glance: “Pictopia”, “Spell Yell Rebell”, “Once upon a Time”, “Dreamy Day” and “Modern Puritan”.
Bodo Jagdberg: Retro meets Modernity
Trendy buttons and belts up from one-piece items to complete sets are the passion of these German additionals specialists. With new, valuable horn buttons in clean-cut shapes they are responding to the new style of femininity that mixes retro looks with modernity using oversized-cut suits and feminine dresses in that 40s style. New electroplated metals, high-gloss steel and nickel looks, emblem buttons and new lacquered surfaces fascinate and are predestined for the uniform-look. Rivets and imitation gems tie in with the glam rock look – one that also suits bright shining steel zippers.
YKK Deutschland: Luxury Zipper
Even zippers come with decorative details – a case in point being the Design Bottom Stop that looks like a jewellery accessory for a zipper. In contrast to this “Ellipse” is an innovative slider design specifically developed for horizontally sewn zipper fasteners whereas “Excella”, the zipper with the genuine leather tape, blends luxury with utility.
COLLECTIONS
Ulmia: From baroque to industrial
The jersey fabrics and textiles from the German printer are divided in four different themes. Baroque stands for exquisite and bright coloured fabrics such as velvet and satin. Activity represents motion and graphical designs, but also classic. In Garden City industrial flair cross about natural elements, while Transit feeds from folkloristic inspirations. For the jerseys, Ulmia developed transitional fabrics made of viscose and wool and also lighter, semitransparent moirés of polyester-jersey especially for the young fashion. For ruffled shirts, flowing jerseys of viscose and elastane suit best, while foil blocking and coatings for jerseys create new surface effects. New in the programme for woven fabrics are composites of wool/ viscose for dresses and skirts or of velour form polyester/ elastane for coats, vests and trousers in 70s look. New chiffons of polyester in metallic-look with a wroughtappearing surface embellish blouses and tunics.
Schoeller Textil: True values
Natural materials dominate the fashion collection of Schoeller Textil, a Swiss specialist in functional fabrics. Especially wool comes to the fore. Bi-elastic, mossy crepes of wool with a dry touch in red and black named schoeller WB-400-soft-shells perfectly suit for swinging retro-coats with raglan sleeves. Compact wool optics in greenish, grey and brown blends follow the Loden-Revival and are thanks to the schoeller c-change-membrane also highly functional. Black fascinates in Structured Black with embossments on impregnated cotton-blends that remind of leather. Fabrics for jackets with coated 3Dembossments appear matt and velvety. Pink, light beige, stone grey, faintly lilac or gentle rose cheer up bad-weather- coats, for example with the schoeller-styltec shining comb optic. Particularly striking are the trendy metallic fabrics in deep gold tones, luminous shades of lemon or bright pink metallic strings. Not to forget are the classy denim fabrics and the matt cotton-satins. Photo: Schoeller Textil
Tiss et Teint: Optimism
The Belgians present colours and textiles that exude optimism. Imitation fur, mohair and loose, soft woollen fabrics for voluminous coats go with winter dresses and blouses. Simply elegant are the dark and noble shining, structured single-coloured fabrics for trousers and jackets. Jacquard patterns, Faux-Unis, natural stone accessories and perky animal prints serve as reference for feminine suits in retro-look that stand for contrasts between fluffy fabrics, loose-knit wool and fine jerseys.
Willy Schmitz: Extremely Masculine
German fabric producers know how to get the best out of wool for menswear. In line with the trend towards onepiece looks, the solo jacket now takes on a key role. Mind you, it must exude quality and feature modern patterns. Which is why pure new wool and its blends with silk and fine wool fibres rank high on the hit list. Primarily coordinating checks in dark to mid-tones and with fancy effects feature in the foreground here. Moreover, almost plain mini-patterns stay en vogue, promising individuality through diverse yarn structures, finesse and different material combinations. Suit fabrics maintain an unfussy look while enthusing us with finest pure new wool fabrics and silk blends in keeping with values and tradition. Young themes include woollen mixtures with synthetic fibres, strict, geometric micro-patterns as well as sparkling yarns and gloss finishes. Looking more natural are light flannels in new pure wool/polyamide blends in retro designs.
Cotonificio Veneto: Made-to-Measure
Skin-tight trousers à la Balenciaga shall soon be within reach for all women. These Italian “cotton freaks” have developed highly elastic fabrics for trousers as monostretches in cotton/elastane preventing trousers from riding up with wear as is the case with so many two-way stretch fabrics. The reasonably priced fabric is reactivedyed though also available in the PPT version. This also applies to softly flowing, coloured denims made of tencel/ cotton/elastane and tencel/elastane for trousers, dresses, skirts and jackets that appear as twill fabrics, satin fabrics or with fine texturing. Even in Sartoriale, the mill-washed range, soft finishes such as the velvet look clash with clean fabric constructions.
Ithitex: New Coats
At last. Always happy to try out new things the Italians are now supplying the market with jacket and coat fabrics that take on that touch of sportiness with their carded wool and diffuse fabric appearances. In addition, Ithitex has refined its washable flannels. They now look casual and less classical and already posted quite a success in summer. Wool and cotton blends were extended featuring fancy designs, sophisticated textures aimed at all those interested in solo jackets.
BLUEZONE
Vicunha:
The Brazilian specialist in denim with European central in Switzerland stands out against the rest with four satisfying themes: Indigo/Redcast with dark, clean indigocolourings in high quality work perfectly for tight drainpipe jeans. Irregular yarns, the domestos-effect or ring-openend- yarns in 60s and 80s style are expressions of a rebellious break-free-spirit continuing the vintage-story. Power-stretch-articles react to the leggings-look trend for jeans and the recycled cotton fabrics from Vicunha respond to the social debate around ecology. After years of investing in processes focused on recycling, middleclass companies now finally reach the standards of the European market for denim fabrics of recycled cotton.
Europe: Clean and smooth
The Italians are as creative as ever. For the new season they propose glitter designs in addition to new print and jacquard designs. New blends such as cotton/silk or cotton/bamboo are considered trailblazing and given an even cleaner look and softer touch by special ammonia finishes. New two-way stretch materials can be found as solids and as denims. Europe continues to bank on quality and innovation. This approach did not fail to convince new customers last year either despite the difficult international climate.
Bossa: Nota Bene
Ecology, recycled denim and paper yarns – the Turks have their finger on the pulse. The most extraordinary are their denims with paper yarns in the weft. The Japanese washi paper yarn not only gives the denims a special Japanese touch, they also score with their dry handle, lightness and breathability while simultaneously absorbing smells and dust. Despite all assumptions about the paper yarn perhaps not being able to withstand washing processes due to a lack of tear resistance, the experts from the Bosporus assure us that the yarns can survive even heavy washes. Equally fascinating is their organic collection featuring organic cotton, soya, wool, linen and GOTS-certified dyes and finishes. “Recycled denims” result from the reused yarn and fabric waste produced from regular production but are lacking in none of quality of classic denims. However, the fibres must always be mixed with normal cotton due to their shorter staple length and the lower tenacity.
Royo: Freaky & Eco
Once more the Spaniards convince buyers with sophisticated finishes and colours based on various black versions, earth tones, graduated grey shades and plum. Metallic-look coatings and a leather-like touch meet with classy denim of the finest quality. Vintage remains a key theme here too. New is the “cool” look produced by a grey weft and a blue warp. Initiating the denim project “Made with Patient” the sportswear professionals are aiming for denims that make environmental sense and are manufactured in compliance with strict ecological standards. The six fabrics in this group – elastic and stable – include a “Hybrid Denim” in organic cotton and Tencel.
ITV: Extrem
The Italians have really “reved up” again being as highfashion as they are commercial: dark, mysterious colours, rich indigo and black form the basis for coloured denims and the new reactive dyeing process “Nero Permanente” for permanently black denims. Highly elastic materials are offered under the heading “Megaflex” and here, too, vintage is still very much in evidence being revisited with destroyed effects, patched looks and faded colours.
ASIASALON
Benetex Valley: Tricot
The Koreans are represented in Munich for the first time. It is true that their product portfolio also includes furnishing fabrics but here in Munich the focus is on fashionable tricot fabrics with a velvet look, micro-suede, long and short-pile microfibre furs, circular knits with a new flowing consistency and prints. Italy is the most important European market for Benetex but Scandinavia and the USA are also key export destinations.